Cookies & Darija

Finally some time at a siber. After a 28 hour delay at JFK, our intrepid, good natured group took off for Casablanca where we landed the next day at noon. A full day later than was arranged. My week (yes I am with 14 other Fulbrighters, but for this blog, I'll speak for myself) in Rabat was a headspinning introduction to l'Maghreb with 4 hour language classes (Darija Arabic, but it certainly helped I had had beginning Standard Arabic prior to this trip) in the morning followed by a hearty lunch at the school; then we were whisked away to the Fulbright Commission for 2 lectures followed by my discovery of the century: cookies. Not your ordinary cookies mind you, but I dare anyone to find cookies of various kinds that are better than these. Traditional Moroccan varieties (gazelle horns are among my favorite) and French versions of other Maghrebi pastries. Darija with Hassan (a more than capable teacher with the patience of a saint), lectures on 20th century political history, Moroccan francophone literature, women's rights, women and Islam, the 2004 Moudawana, and a reading by Leila Abouzeid--this was the week. I have managed to read two books and have started my third. I really should blame my lack of sleep on my reading.
On Saturday morning, we left the cookies and our darija classes behind and departed for Tetouan and then Tangier. In its medina, we had a lecture on the social and cultural history of Tetouan through the study of its architecture and urban planning. An exhausting walking tour, but one of the best learning experiences I've ever had. Tangier is far larger than I expected and while it does not come close to Cairo in scale and population, the throngs of people and honking horns do remind me of Cairo. Of course, the Mediterranean ensures a comfortable 85. In the future, I will try to avoid the boring travelogue. The next siber opportunity--who knows.
bsmallah.
lcr